Mountain Beaver

Assuming you mean the "real" mountain beaver (_Aplodontia sp._), see


Controlling Mountain Beaver

In an area where there is only limited damage such as a single rhodie or tree being stripped, enclosing the plant in a wire fence will often discourage the pest. A two-strand electric fence with the bottom wire about 4 inches above the ground should also work. One can also fence the entire yard with a rabbit-proof fence (chain-link, chicken wire, etc.) to protect the landscape. Be sure the bottom of the fence is tight against the ground or even buried a foot or two.

Repellents have not proven consistently effective but some researchers have had fair results with 36% putrescent egg solid based products. Other researchers have found the Thiram based repellents of some value for protecting Douglas fir seedlings..

Mountain Beavers can also be easily cage-trapped and re-located, although some studies have shown that most re-located wildlife does not long survive. Drowning the animals in a garbage can full of cold water may be the most humane treatment. Check with your local State Wildlife Department for their recommendations.

A rabbit-size cage trap can be set directly in the main entrance of the mountain beavers tunnel system and covered with a tarp or burlap bag. The cover directs the animal into the trap and protects it until it can be dealt with. You can also bait the trap with a piece of apple or sweet potato.

Mountain beavers are very prone to hypothermia so do your trapping when the weather is mild.

Conibear 110's also work very well but must be set INSIDE the tunnel to minimize non-target catches. Even so, bear in mind that other species may share mountain beaver tunnels so you may end up catching weasels, skunks or other non-target animals.

With any trap, it is most important to make the set at an active burrow. Mountain Beavers make a lot of holes but use only a few regularly.Hope this helps.....



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Used with Permission 1/16/99





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